the first taste i got of how laid-back iceland is was on the way to stykkisholmur on the snaefellsnes peninsula in west iceland by bus. the bus left late from the capital because the driver was busy helping two backpackers fit their bicycles in an already packed luggage compartment. we were about fifteen minutes late, and the connection time to catch the second bus in bogarnes was a scant five minutes. after we passed akranes and started for borgarnes, i began silently freaking out. yes, i was that guy who asked the bus driver (when nobody else seemed to care) if he could radio the other driver to tell him…