there’s something about tiny český krumlov that makes me really happy. of course it’s beautiful and a unesco world heritage site (also the second most visited town in the czech republic) and its geography is quite unique (the vltava river makes an “S” curve through the compact center), but it could be other reasons. it was the first place i ever visited in the czech republic, way back in 2006. it was one of the reasons we moved to budějovice, because i knew how great south bohemia was already. or that i’ve taught kids there. but maybe it’s just that it’s a laid-back place to be with relaxed people and a friendly atmosphere. or that i’ve taken all my friends and family there when they visit because it’s only a half hour away.
whatever the reason, český krumlov is wonderful and is always worth a visit… even if you’ve been there so many times you lose track.
on this particular late march sunday, it was sunny, warm and there were the lowest amount of tourists there i’ve ever seen (not that i have a problem with them, i actually don’t really mind).
the four of us (alex, dad, & his wife ana) wandered, we pillaged the castle, we saw strange art in a labyrinth, and ate at one of my favorite joints, laibon. i will mention laibon every time i talk about krumlov because it’s totally the best restaurant (& tea house) to visit. it’s vegetarian “world cuisine” housed in this super old stone fortress of a building with a fabulous terrace by the river. the service is fantastic because of the quirky owner, who i’m convinced is magic. as in, probably isn’t a muggle. if you meet him, you’ll see. also, only czech restaurant that serves kombucha as far as i know. three cheers!
krumlov also has a host of great cafes: cafe 99 in the northern center (serves chai, waffles, & great sammies), the newly opened kollectiv in the center, and so many others i’ve popped into once or twice and loved. the cafe selection here puts budějovice to shame.
krumlov warms my heart. and my skin, apparently as i went home with a few new freckles and alex with a tan (portuguese blood, that’ll do it). i always feel so relaxed yet invigorated here. besides wandering and eating, you can visit the castle, go to the egon schiele art museum, go horseback-riding, hiking, or boating in the summer. but one doesn’t need to do much in krumlov. simply wandering is often enough for me.