• Summer,  Travel

    I Dyed in Szczecin

    it was my last full day in poland and i was on a (very very full) train from the hel peninsula bound for szczecin, near the german border. i chose to visit szczecin because i’d heard a lot of great things in the travel bloggy world about this gritty polish harbor city and i wanted to see it with my own eyes. naively, when booking the trip i planned a handful of “one-nighters”, and this was one of them, my last hurrah in poland. but little did i know that one nighters aren’t such a great idea when you’re on a long backpacking trip. those days were such whirlwinds and admittedly,…

  • Summer

    a czech heart

    sometimes i feel especially touched by certain stories i am privileged to hear from locals who share them with me. this is one of them, one woman’s account of what living in prague in the mid-70’s was like. this is another.i can’t tell it interview style because i don’t remember the back-and-forth quite as well, as it was a bit longer, but i’ll tell you what i remember and what i know. last week, i shared with J a story about the tragic separation of my landlord’s family from a part of their family who emigrated to the united states after the second world war, which was important because it…

  • Summer

    a winter wunderland

    the day after christmas, i (and much of central europe) woke up to a magical blanket of snow.  i hadn’t at all expected that it would snow during christmas… last year it was around 10c! this here was the stuff of miracles. after breakfast, we took a snowy winter walk around the lake and some residential areas before hopping on a boat for a lake cruise to st. wolfgang– the biggest village on wolfgangsee (which still isn’t really that big at all). it is also the most heavily toured spot on the lake. all the other merry tourists seemed to have the same idea as it was the first day…

  • Summer

    beginning the year

    oh the dreaded first monday of the year, the day when we are forcefully shook from our holiday stupor and before you know it, you’re standing in front of eight students on a monday morning thinking, “welp, this is weird.” fortunately getting back to normal wasn’t quite as brutal as it was last year. so far so good. but, it’s been a bit of a whirlwind. besides travel tuesday, i’ve been pretty absent from online things. i’ve been busting my back with teaching and other daily activities that by the end of the day (we’ll say around 9pm) i am ready to hit the mattress. (which is good, because our…

  • Summer

    atop the zwölferhorn

    the zwölferhorn, which means something like “the twelfth peak” in german, is a mountain of 1,522m in height that looms over tiny st. gilgen. the village is, in fact, where you go to take the cable car to the top. when i was first researching the area a few months ago i was thinking no way, no how am i ever getting on that cable car! for some reason, i’ve developed a crippling dislike of heights in the last three years or so (good thing i got some swiss travels out of the way before then….) and was thinking i would have to forgo this trip.and then, right before we left,…

  • Summer

    christmas in st. gilgen, austria

    why did i choose to spend christmas time at austria’s wolfgangsee? well, by the beginning of autumn, we hadn’t heard any talk of visitors so i thought it would be a great idea to experience an alpine christmas somewhere. austria, with its close proximity to southern czech republic fit the bill perfectly, especially the salzkammergut area (lake and alpine region near salzburg), which is closer to us than tirol or the other famous alpine regions of the country. we booked a sweet family-owned hotel and christmas was planned! it only took two and a half hours to get to st. gilgen from budějovice (mostly because our driver flew like a…

  • Summer

    a year of travels: 2014

    you know those facebook “year in review” things where it shows you your year as if it knows you? (and how well can a social media website know you, anyway?) when i clicked on mine, a photo from 2013 popped up as the centerpiece and then a load of random photos: reggie watts (?!), a landscape shot of hel, poland, a still from big brother 16. just pathetic, facebook.sometimes, if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself. in that spirit, here’s my travel year in review of only my favorite travel memories… and it’s been a heck of a year and i’m feeling really thankful about…

  • Summer

    returning from a trip: pros & cons

    hope everyone has had a very merry holiday! we have returned from our snowy austrian alpine christmas and i know i’ll have a lot to share with you. but for today, a smattering of inevitable thoughts i’m always thinking after returning home from a trip. why you’re so excited to come home from a trip… > get to sleep in your own bed! can i get a “woooo hoooo!”> full 24/7 access to a tea kettle and assortment of teas (just basically chugged a hot mug of herbal tea because i was so happy)> hooray, bath tub! i wanted to take a bath but the hotel only had a shower.> cooking!…

  • Summer

    december, lately + travel tuesday

    happy christmas week! it is another literal travel tuesday as i’m spending the morning heading to a tiny village in the salzkamergut (austria) where we are spending the christmas holidays this year. (if you can’t be at home with family and friends, go somewhere awesome and eat tons of schnitzel)so i thought i’d bring you a few moments and things going on from december. it’s been a good week: the last week before lessons end is always so much fun! i am continually surprised and amazed by the generosity and kindness of our students and family… it almost brings a tear to my eye. packages have rolled in from our…

  • Summer

    the christmas play debacle

    in late november, i was informed that because i am teaching childrens’ classes, i am responsible for teaching my kids something to perform at the annual student christmas party that my language school throws each year. basically, a time for parents to come and see their kid sing or say something nice in english. this was made to sound like it would be really easy and fun. upon first hearing about this with about two weeks notice, i smiled and nodded. it was all i could do. (note: i was the only native speaker lecturer participating) my “tween” class nipped this in the bud right away. as soon as i…